Japan: Secret and Soulful, Setouchi

You may be saying, "Set...what?!" I did too when I first came across it, but research has led me to dream of how I could visit this region and what I should explore in the area. What really had me intrigued, was when I heard more about where this region is located. They describe this region as, "The Aegean Sea of the East." Which ultimately means it has warmer weather all year round and less annual rainfall. As an Oregonian, I certainly love to travel to warmer areas around the world, so I can escape the rainy weather back at home!

This region can easily be tied in with a trip to the major cities that most people to travel to Japan for. You could start your adventures in Tokyo, make your way to Kyoto and end in a city or town that is in Setouchi. If you’re like me, after a week of packing everything in, waking up early for tours and going to sleep late after walking around to see the cities at night. Slowing down at the end of your trip before heading home- is a great idea! Or you could start your trip in this area and get rid of your jet lag in the meantime.

I'll be the first to admit it, I have been known to plan a day around a meal. Especially when I'm traveling in foreign countries. Are you also one of those people? I approve, and I sincerely encourage this kind of planning while on holiday! When you finally make it to Setouchi, I have good news for you. You can easily find a place that carries Kobe beef on their menu and it's the real deal. There is also something else that I have several friends that would travel across the world for- this area is also famous for its oysters! If you're crazy for oysters, you could even plan a trip around the Miyajima Oyster Festival, which happens every February.

To be honest, I would most enjoy trying different dishes made from Udon noodles while in the region (yes, they are also known for Udon here!). I was literally eating Udon noodles for breakfast while I was in China last year, so I would love to see how they prepared them in Japan. Pro tip: get a cooking lesson from a local chef and learn how to make them yourself on your trip. You can do this as a solo traveler, with your travel buddy or it's a great activity to enjoy as a family. Believe me, all kids love noodles!

Okay enough about the food for now, you're going to also have to move around to work up your appetite. No worries here, you'll have P L E N T Y of things to do. I'd say the one big thing that I should highlight in the area and that has really captured my attention, is the Kosanji Temple on Ikuchijima Island. Depending on how active of a person you are, you can reach the island by boat or by bike. You'll find me on the boat taking in the views, but I'll cheer you on if you're signing up for a day of cycling. The grounds, including the temples, the gardens and different levels of the monuments throughout the place, took over 30 years to complete! This was all done as a homage from a son to his mother. That is some serious love right there. He even shipped marble from Italy to complete one of the areas of the temples. Be sure to plan a short stop while you are in this area. You can take a seat and order a drink at the cafe.

Another must visit place for me would be to explore the Himeji Castle. It can be enjoyed as a nice day trip from Hiroshima. As a castle lover myself, I'm sure I could spend a slow, half day tour there, taking it all in. I would love to hire a great guide to reflect on the history of the buildings that make up the castle grounds. UNESCO has dubbed it as "the finest surviving example of early 17th century Japanese castle architecture."

It would be a mistake if I didn't make enough time to get out on the water and to enjoy the calm seas. Or even over the water in this region. You can hire a seaplane to take you over the sea for 50 minutes of exciting sightseeing from the skies! If you're looking for something a bit more relaxing and wanting to connect with nature, a kayak or bike rental may be more your pace. If you're like me, you may want to do all three. I've also read about where you can enjoy a nice catamaran tour that you can consider. I imagined a nice relaxing afternoon on the water, sea breeze in my hair, sipping local sake from the region and a specialty lunch in one of the old towns.

So where do you stay in the region of Setouchi? A hotel geek like myself has a lot of options for you to consider. Though it all really depends on how we decide to fit Setouchi into your itinerary and where you are coming from beforehand or if this is your last stop(s) on your trip. Japan has a variation of different accommodations for you to think about enjoying during your journey through the country. I personally love to mix it up for my clients, this way they can experience something a bit more traditional, as well as places that are sleek and modern.

One question that I will ask my travelers, can you picture yourself surrounded by forests and tucked quietly away in nature? Or in an elegant suite, over looking the water and the bays that are widely spread through this destination? Maybe you would prefer to be in the hustle and bustle of things and you'd prefer to stay in the historical center. This way you can enjoy taking in some of the well preserved buildings in the old towns, visiting cafes and window shopping in your free time. Lots of options and even more reasons to spend more time in a special destination like this.

So tell me, are you ready to be charmed by Setouchi? This was only a teaser of what you can do while visiting this exciting destination in Japan! I’m just a call or an email away if you have any questions about Japan and I can’t wait to share more info with you.

Italy: Driving around the country

I think the most important thing to start with- Italians are not joking around on the roads. Especially on the freeways. You do NOT go into the fast lane, without #1- actually driving fast and #2, actually looking over your shoulder as well as in the mirrors twice. Three times would be better. Cars will come up on you without you even realizing it and whiz by you. The first time this happens, you're probably going to be shocked, or think it's a police chase. Maybe it's a rocket ship? Do not, for your safety and others and the road, do not enter the fast lane without checking if it's clear to merge over...three times. From there, you can use that lane to pass the other cars and then move right back over to the slow lane in the right. It's not like America, people don't dilly dally on the freeway and enjoy whatever lane they want. Freeways and roads are used for getting places. 

The lines in the street are a suggestion, not a rule. People will drive in the middle of both lanes, they will cut over the middle line while going on a curve and they absolutely will tailgate you without giving it much thought. This is just another day in Italy. I don't even know if there is a word for "tailgate" in Italian, because they all do it hahah! It's not really a big deal. It won't be just cars doing it, but also semis- also normal. If you're really bothered by it, time to pull over, let the person pass and continue on your day. Especially if you're following directions with a navigator and trying to figure the roads out, no need for that extra pressure. I’m saying this from experience, after just driving around for 5 days.

Italians have the need for speed, but you’re also going to encounter that sweet little nonno, that is out for a Sunday ride. Be cautious of tractors, vespas and bikers while driving. Lots of people enjoying cycling in the countryside and it’s best if you just let them lead the way if you don’t know the street well, only pass when you are able to.

I advise everyone to drive with their lights on, even during the day. There are many many tunnels throughout Italy when driving and it’s best just to play it safe to have those on. If you ignored my first rule and you’re camping in the fast lane and someone drives up behind you, they will simply flash their lights at you, for you to get over. I find this very considerate and very smart. This gets your attention in the mirrors and you simply get over for them to pass you. I’ve done this to someone in the states, not thinking much of it, I didn’t get one bird when I passed them, but two birds. If ya know what I mean. Yikes.

Now lets talk about one of my favorite things about driving in Italy! I love roundabouts. I don't love them in the states, because (most) Americans don't really know how to go through them. So people stop or have to go around again. It kills me. Stop signs are the biggest waste of time, so roundabouts are such a smart use of the roads to keep the flow of traffic going. Learn how to use them and love them, because they are great!

We might as well bring up the subject of parking, which is one of my least favorite things in Italy. They do NOT mess around with extra space. What we would consider being blocked in, they make it a normal parking space. It's normal to have inches within your car and another, at least when you're in a city it is. Which means they are ridiculously skilled and that they probably tapped your car backing into that spot. Normal? Normal.

Whatever else can I be forgetting? I’ll be sure to add more tips, but questions are certainly welcome! Fun fact: I learned how to drive stick in Italy, that’s a story worth telling over a glass of wine. Grazie Cecilia for your patience and laughter…when I stalled in a round about. Four times.

Italy: Astonishing Assisi

A city known among many, but many may say it is still unknown. Intrigued?

Assisi. You splendid, special, spectacular thing. I’d heard this name mentioned, passed around and yet, this was my first visit. The wind was fierce, the views crystal clear for kilometers and kilometers and the streets...empty! I loved having these corners of the town to myself, only occasionally passing another person or couple. I did see a group of Chinese tourists all dressed up in uniforms, I’m assuming school uniforms since they all looked so young. Then as I was headed back to my car I saw a group of Italian high school students loading into a bus. This made me think about the “field trips” that I took as a kid from southern Oregon. We had caves in the nearby mountains and I used to think that was the coolest thing! Oh to be a kid again…

The wind seriously chilled me to the bone and I rushed about the town taking photos and quickly putting my hands back in my pockets. I walked from one side of the town to the other. The main roadway was basically straight all of the way, built into the side of the mountain. Many stores and restaurants were closed that were on the edge of town, and it’s smart because it’s their true off season at this time. They must save up their energy for their busy months. No rest for the wicked!

I again failed myself by not hiring a guide, however, I do plan to be back here! I walked by some really beautiful medieval homes turned into shops or cafes. Still proudly representing a crest above their doors. Something I love to see! As I stood there, looking around in disbelief that some of these places are still standing, men dressed as priests walked by me smiling kindly. Lots and lots of them. I wondered what their stories were, if they have been here long or are here with other groups that are on a spiritually focused tour group. Which you can absolutely do here!

As it should be, the grand finale was at the end of the town, perched over the Umbrian countryside, standing tall and fabulous in all of its glory. The Basilica of Saint Francis d’Assisi.

A lady selling scarves saw me standing like an idiot shivering and started laughing. I commented on the weather in Italian, and she replied, “we can’t all be saints!” Referring to the main man/saint of this town!
I laughed and her smiled warmed me, I waved goodbye and walked toward the church. I knew this was well known in the spiritual world, but I didn’t really read too much into it. If I’m excited about something I don’t look at a zillion google photos or blogs, the element of surprise is still there sometimes, which is exciting! No photos are allowed inside, though an Italian woman continued to snap photos in certain corners, trying to avoid the guards and security cameras....lady, stop it. Please don’t be that person. Respect the rules folks.

Without having my lens to look through, at every corner of the church, I decided to take a seat in one of the pews. I looked at the details and the stories that the art displayed. Some still very intact, others showing a bit of wear and tear. It’s then that I spotted these machines at the side of the church in the second level (yes, there are levels to this church, it just keeps on going and going!). For 2 euros you could put on some headphones, look at a screen and touch on different stories of the church that you wanted to learn about. More of a quick overview since they only lasted about 1-2 mins each, but it was something and I was happy to take in some history while I was there.

I had most streets, most piazzas and corners of the basilica to myself. I could see how this town could be in the peak seasons- especially during their festival that lasts two days, October 4th and the 5th. Be ready for the crowds around those days!

I considered hiking up to the fortress that hovers over the town, but I chickened out when I realized what time it was already. I’ve been a bit on a schedule on this trip and ideally parking the rental car before dark. Honestly with these hairpin turns in these little towns, it’s great to park the car and have a glass of wine after driving all over the place every day! I hope you’ll consider Assisi for your next trip to Italy, if not for an overnight stay, you can do just like I did and take a day trip from a nearby town. You won’t regret it!