Colombia: Grasslands Tractor Safari

It was a late start to the day, only because I had sleepily snoozed my 4:00am alarm. While the others in the group headed off on a sunrise excursion, I was completely passed out and glued to my bed. If I’m being completely honest, it’s because I hadn’t slept much the night before. I was listening to the sounds outside of my screen (notice I say screen), because this hotel has no windows, only screens. The sounds in the night kept me up like a child on Christmas Eve, but there were no presents, just spiders and creepy crawlies that I couldn’t pronounce the names of, perhaps all hiding under my bed. I didn’t have the guts to check. Though I claim to not be a city girl, I also don’t consider myself an outdoorsy person. More of a “enjoys cocktails on outdoor patios, with optional shade.”

Where we enjoyed breakfast, lunch and dinner and lots of laughs.

Where we enjoyed breakfast, lunch and dinner and lots of laughs.

I made my way to the dining hall that morning, which I can say more simply as an open aired building with a table, as long as a tree that sat us all together for our meals. Hot cocoa, some kind of fried dough, soup, leftover rice, beans and fruit was served. I checked through my bag one more time, knowing we were leaving at 9 and we’d back to the property around 8pm. Bug spray, check. Camera with full battery, check. Hat, check. Water, check. Rain jacket, check. Although my bag was prepared, I was feeling quite anxious. It’s not every day that you might be introduced to an anaconda. 

Here’s the property we stayed at. The only neighbors they have are the howler monkeys!

Here’s the property we stayed at. The only neighbors they have are the howler monkeys!

We hopped on the wooden boat to pass to the other side of the river that flowed along the side of the property we were staying at. Then there sat the horses and a tractor with a trailer attached to the back of it. I opted to go in the back of the for the trailer, since my Irish skin wasn’t completely agreeing with the heat and direct sun. It was exciting at first, I was grabbing the binoculars, looking at each bird that passed, my head went left to right and right to left, searching for any sign of wildlife in the tall grass or trees. My anxiety was gone and now I was just giddy to be back in the nature and hopeful to lay eyes on a new type of animal. Would we see the giant ant eater today, maybe the local anaconda? 

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What we did see plenty of that day, were cows and capybara, which I now like to call care bears. Honestly I’m sure my guide was so over me by the end of the trip, continuously asking how to pronounce things. He finally had to write it down for some of us. Annnd it’s spelled just the way it sounds.

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The capybara is a mammal native to South America. It is the largest living rodent in the world. Also called chigüire or chigüiro.

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Though I adore my camera, what you really need for a trip like this is a fantastic lens. Something you can zoom in with, otherwise you’ll end up just giving up like I did! We saw so much different wildlife, but my camera just didn’t cut it. Luckily my brain is still sharp, so I’ll cherish all of my mental images for a while longer!

As the tractor took us farther and farther away into the grasslands, I began to think…what if the tractor broke down out here?! Spoiler alert- it didn’t and we made it back safe that night.

After about an hour the tractor stopped and we hopped off to go and look for cayman and crocodiles. While all of us were sinking into the mud everywhere, losing our shoes left and right, the guides headed off to an area to search for an anaconda. Think about it for a second, how would you search for this giant snake? What kind of gear would you wear for this event? I’m thinking medieval armor and possibly a sword. Well these men head out there in some old jeans, a t-shirt and get this- WITHOUT shoes! Brave much? They poke around in the mud, literally poke at it with a long wooden stick, until the ground moves and jackpot! Unfortunately I didn’t head off in that direction to help them out, I figured everyone was better off with me about 100 yards away. Meanwhile I was sitting on the ground, chatting it up with a ground owl.

This sweet boy was actually down inside of a hole in the ground when we first wandered up. All you could see were two, brilliant, yellow eyes in the shadow, staring out at us. I was worried we were scaring him, but after a few seconds he surprised us all by scurrying up the hole and out into the sunshine. Now staring up at all of us, wondering what the heck we were doing. He gave us quite the show, hardly moving an inch as we slowly scooted on the ground closer and closer to him. The owl looked from person to person, we sat there whispering to each other and then to him. “Who’s a good boy?!”

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After no such luck of finding the anaconda, we left our new friend behind and carried on in search of more wildlife. In the distance we saw the Andes, what a sight!! The rain clouds that seemed to be hovering near us all morning, finally let lose as we sat down for lunch at someones home. We ate as the rain came pouring down around the open aired patios and slowly we left the table and found a hammock to pass the time in. We enjoyed siesta time until the rain stopped and it was time to load back into the tractor and this time we were on our way to find the rare and very special ant eater.

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We passed a small croc and he waited in the tall grass, standing there watching us pass him by. We saw a family of capybara, which did not care one bit about the tractor coming toward them. Then it happened very quickly, but all of the sudden one of our guides and the driver of the tractor named Don Julio, shouted to all of us in the back and he was pointing out to the left and there it was, the ant eater was slinking between the grass! He disappeared into some bushes and I wondered if that was the only glimpse that we would perhaps get to see of him. I held my breath as the tractor kicked into gear and we were on our way to attempt to get closer to him. It took us about another 5 minutes and we were actually able to see him again and he was much much closer to the tractor this time. You could see his strange, but beautiful, long, bushy tail, and his thin nose pushing through the grass. I cursed under my breath realizing how absolutely useless my photos looked, so I gave up and just watched him.

Giant Anteater, also known as Ant Bear

Did you know: The front feet bear huge claws and giant anteaters walk on their knuckles with their claws folded up into their palms for protection.

This was the perfect ending to a very long day. We headed back toward our hotel, mostly in the dark. I started to have flashbacks of my night drives in South Africa and I half expected to see large eyes staring back at me in the night. Though all we saw were owls, small crocs and eventually we were handed a cold beer and we all cheered to another fabulous day of exploring the grasslands!

Animals of Sabi Sands, Kruger National Park

It's an unusual feeling when your ranger picks you up at the airport and you are sitting there, in the back of the open jeep realizing your first drive to the lodge you're staying at is technically your first game drive! The guards at the gate and entrance to the game reserve waved us passed the gates and that's when I had felt it...I had butterflies! Conrad my ranger and driver for while I was in Kruger, was driving very casually, it was as if we were just cruising down a back road somewhere. Not like we had just entered the lions den, quite literally. 

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Though in the back of my head, I knew we were probably going to see a gazillion types of dear, but every time I saw one I had my camera out and ready to take at least five shots of each one and each type. Definitely not even close to what I grew up seeing in Oregon!

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I had decided months before my trip that I would be happy with whatever animals I saw, whatever they may be, however big or small. I did go into the experience hoping to see at least one baby, a baby anything honestly! 

Lucky me and lucky anyone that has the opportunity to stay at a property that has a waterhole or a river or creek nearby, you'll have the opportunity to see these guys ----->

They weren't so active when they drove us up next to the waters edge, and then all of the sudden these two full on just started bullying each other. This went on for quite some time. Meanwhile behind them, a herd of elephants walk up and start drinking from the waterhole, which makes them sink back down and assume their position with just their eyes poking out above the water.

This was alllll on my first day. I was at the edge of my seat every second of each game drive.

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I had no idea what the tracker was pointing at when we pulled up to two other jeeps that were parked and everyone was looking down at some rocks. I peered down at those rocks and saw that the rocks had tails, then paws...and faces. The rocks were in fact lions! A whole lot of them! I think I said something along the lines of "you've got to be freaking kidding me!" They rested there, snuggling each other, rolling in the grass and scratching themselves. Yawning these big great yawns, flashing their teeth for just a second and then back to cleaning each other. I sat still, quietly watching them, completely in awe of what sat before me. Nine lovely, licking, lollygagging, living lions. 

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The next day our morning was cool and crisp, the air was refreshing and it made me feel alive to be in the wild exploring the game reserve with new found friends, including the tracker and ranger. It's exhilarating really. Indescribable to those that haven't experienced this before. Our tracker pointed out ahead of us and we took off in the direction where his hand was waving us along. There was a large herd of Cape Buffalo, wandering through the grass, munching on everything that stood in their way. When our car was turned off, you could hear them stomping over the sticks, the small shrubs and bushes around them. They only glanced up at us for a few seconds, the babies were the ones that were truly interested in what we were. Otherwise the group just made their way around us, like we had an invisible shield. 

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I was thrilled with all of the wonderful photos that I captured in my short amount of time in Sabi Sands. I joked with people and said, "this place makes everyone look like a photographer!" But it does, it really does. The nature was simply incredible and as we all know so well, no picture truly displays how fabulous things really were when you were there living in the moment. We sat there quietly, watching this injured Rhino stand behind some brush. Letting the birds pick at him until one started to dance into his ear and he shook him off. Our tracker explained that he must have recently been in a fight, we saw marks on his face and all about his body and his back side. It was on the second day that I realized what kind of world I was experiencing out in the wild. How mother nature has created each animal with a purpose. It was gut wrenching when we came across an animal like this that was either older or injured and the tracker told us how they would soon meet their fate, either by being preyed on by lions or a pack of hyenas. 

I've saved the cats/best for last! Just in case you weren't excited enough by the other animals, I figured this would make you stick around to see more. We saw the cheetah walking swiftly through the grass. I thought there was just one until it walked up to the second one and I set down my camera to take it all in. The lions were exciting to see, but they were very sleepy, whereas these cheetahs gave me all the feels! The way they cut through the grass, stopping to look around for a moment, sniffing the air, just the way my own cat does when I burn something in the kitchen. 

After seeing the two cheetahs, we enjoyed sundowners in a field. We said goodnight to the sun and good morning to the moon. A gin and tonic made it's way into my hands and we sat there snacking and chatting in the twilight, until it was too dark to see if I had finished my drink or not. Which was sign enough that we should be on our way back to the lodge and on to dinner. Richard our tracker, had shown the spot light into the dark from left to right, over and over again, looking for a set of eyes to be staring back at us in the night. The wind rushed passed us as we drove quickly through the dark and my eyes were staring into the shadows hoping to catch a glimpse of something, though I knew very well that it was "a shot in the dark" haha! Get it? 

Richard whispered something back to Conrad our ranger, and Conrad slowed the car way down, coming to a full stop. He all but barely put it in park when he hopped out of the car, getting our complete attention now. Conrad made his way over to a short tree, reaching into it. Toward what, none of us knew. He cupped his other hand around something and pivoted on his heel, slowly making his way back to the car. The sweetest chameleon sat stunned in his hand, eyes turning this way and that. I'm still not sure who was more stunned, this sweet reptile or all of us humans that couldn't believe Richard had THAT good of eyes to spot him! In the dark, in a tree, as we were driving quickly by!! It was a treat that our ranger was so passionate about his job, wanting to share every find that he came across with us. 

This was an exciting moment for me. Okay, you're right, I've probably said that about every day on my South Africa trip. But just give me a chance to explain. We had been tracking this leopard since our first drive. It's a rare opportunity to lay eyes on a leopard and the time we got to sit by and take it all in, will be cherished forever for me! I included the photo of the leopard turned around, because the markings on its ears are just so stinking cute! The fur on this animal was so striking. It was incredible when the leopard laid down for a bit of shut eye and if we hadn't already been following him, I'd never be able to point him out. Not in a million years. The camouflage was unreal. 

I think I literally held my breath when the animal made it's way toward our car. Straight toward us, never glancing up into our eyes, but I had a sense it was very aware of us and our breathing, our scents, our whispers all as he inched closer. He passed by us in an instant, like we were nothing and I was brought back to earth when the ranger said "Kelsey, no reaching out and petting this cat, please." We all laughed and watched the leopard sink through the tall grass, finding another spot near a tree to rest and take watch of his surroundings.

I owe it to Kruger National Park, because I know I am forever changed from this trip. Truly professionally and personally this was quite an eye opener for me. It's like my senses came alive and so did my purpose. It was emotional leaving this place, these animals, the staff that I quickly bonded with. I knew then as I drove away on my last afternoon in the game reserve, that Africa is a place that will stay with me forever and I must learn more about it's lands so I can share this with other travelers. Is Africa for everyone? Maybe not. But it is there for the people that care about our earth, good hearted human beings that are curious about other cultures, animal lovers, and any of you adventurous souls out there in this world that are ready to become storytellers! Because that's what Africa will make you be, you will want to tell everyone about your journey and everything that you've learned.

Reach out to me when you are ready, but do me the favor and don't wait to go on this trip when you're retired or when you can go all out with everything 5 star. There are many sides to Africa and there are many ways for you to enjoy it! 

Cape Town: Towering & Tranquil, Table Mountain

It's just one of those things, you can't take your eyes off of. Wherever we were in the city, I wanted to know what the view of the Table Mountain looked like from a different angle. Unless it was completely covered by the clouds, it was truly a spectacular sight to take in and I'm sure the locals never tire of it either. 

Don't only stand below it, looking up, get on top and look below!

Don't only stand below it, looking up, get on top and look below!

Well don't just look at it, go to it! I was so excited to get on top of Table Mountain to see the views, that I hadn't thought much about the how we're getting up there part. I knew we were going via cable car, but the day we headed up there to the ticket station, there was a huge race going on. People were running around it's base and up and around it's paths. If you're a dare devil and an in shape one at that, I would highly recommend getting a guide and hiking to the top! There are plenty of companies that offer this.

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Once at the top (however you decide to get there), just stop for a moment. Don't take your phone out for a selfie, don't grab your friend to keep walking around the corner to see another vantage point, just....look. Look to the ocean, peer out to Robbens Island, where Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. Let your eyes drift back to shore and take in the view of the Cape Town Stadium, which was built for the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Then look at Lion's Head, which for some reason I keep calling Dinosaurs head...oops. Though I know why, because the rock on the mountain reminded me of the dinosaurs that had sailbacks. Fun Fact: You can hike Lion's Head also!

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It was the perfect day. The weather was spot on, not anything stronger than a soft ocean breeze. It was serene standing there, looking down at the city and everything so still around and below us. 

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I was on the back side of the mountain, walking slowly, taking the view in and I will never forget looking down the path and locking eyes with this guy, photographed above. I shrieked, yell-whispered over to the person closest to me in my group. You know what I mean by yell-whisper, wanting to be quiet so I didn't scare away the creature, but actually yelling with excitement. As it turns out, I wasn't the first person to see one of these little guys. They are referred to as a "Dassie"- one of the most unbelievable facts about Table Mountain’s Dassies is that they are the closest related relatives to Elephants. Despite the enormous difference in size between the two, research has claimed the dassie is the African elephant’s closest living relative. I. Kid. You. Not.

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On really good days, both sides are clear and you can look down the coastline on the other side of Table Mountain. Unfortunately we missed it, maybe even by just a couple of hours, but I have this feeling that I will be back someday!