Italy: Driving around the country

I think the most important thing to start with- Italians are not joking around on the roads. Especially on the freeways. You do NOT go into the fast lane, without #1- actually driving fast and #2, actually looking over your shoulder as well as in the mirrors twice. Three times would be better. Cars will come up on you without you even realizing it and whiz by you. The first time this happens, you're probably going to be shocked, or think it's a police chase. Maybe it's a rocket ship? Do not, for your safety and others and the road, do not enter the fast lane without checking if it's clear to merge over...three times. From there, you can use that lane to pass the other cars and then move right back over to the slow lane in the right. It's not like America, people don't dilly dally on the freeway and enjoy whatever lane they want. Freeways and roads are used for getting places. 

The lines in the street are a suggestion, not a rule. People will drive in the middle of both lanes, they will cut over the middle line while going on a curve and they absolutely will tailgate you without giving it much thought. This is just another day in Italy. I don't even know if there is a word for "tailgate" in Italian, because they all do it hahah! It's not really a big deal. It won't be just cars doing it, but also semis- also normal. If you're really bothered by it, time to pull over, let the person pass and continue on your day. Especially if you're following directions with a navigator and trying to figure the roads out, no need for that extra pressure. I’m saying this from experience, after just driving around for 5 days.

Italians have the need for speed, but you’re also going to encounter that sweet little nonno, that is out for a Sunday ride. Be cautious of tractors, vespas and bikers while driving. Lots of people enjoying cycling in the countryside and it’s best if you just let them lead the way if you don’t know the street well, only pass when you are able to.

I advise everyone to drive with their lights on, even during the day. There are many many tunnels throughout Italy when driving and it’s best just to play it safe to have those on. If you ignored my first rule and you’re camping in the fast lane and someone drives up behind you, they will simply flash their lights at you, for you to get over. I find this very considerate and very smart. This gets your attention in the mirrors and you simply get over for them to pass you. I’ve done this to someone in the states, not thinking much of it, I didn’t get one bird when I passed them, but two birds. If ya know what I mean. Yikes.

Now lets talk about one of my favorite things about driving in Italy! I love roundabouts. I don't love them in the states, because (most) Americans don't really know how to go through them. So people stop or have to go around again. It kills me. Stop signs are the biggest waste of time, so roundabouts are such a smart use of the roads to keep the flow of traffic going. Learn how to use them and love them, because they are great!

We might as well bring up the subject of parking, which is one of my least favorite things in Italy. They do NOT mess around with extra space. What we would consider being blocked in, they make it a normal parking space. It's normal to have inches within your car and another, at least when you're in a city it is. Which means they are ridiculously skilled and that they probably tapped your car backing into that spot. Normal? Normal.

Whatever else can I be forgetting? I’ll be sure to add more tips, but questions are certainly welcome! Fun fact: I learned how to drive stick in Italy, that’s a story worth telling over a glass of wine. Grazie Cecilia for your patience and laughter…when I stalled in a round about. Four times.

Italy: Astonishing Assisi

A city known among many, but many may say it is still unknown. Intrigued?

Assisi. You splendid, special, spectacular thing. I’d heard this name mentioned, passed around and yet, this was my first visit. The wind was fierce, the views crystal clear for kilometers and kilometers and the streets...empty! I loved having these corners of the town to myself, only occasionally passing another person or couple. I did see a group of Chinese tourists all dressed up in uniforms, I’m assuming school uniforms since they all looked so young. Then as I was headed back to my car I saw a group of Italian high school students loading into a bus. This made me think about the “field trips” that I took as a kid from southern Oregon. We had caves in the nearby mountains and I used to think that was the coolest thing! Oh to be a kid again…

The wind seriously chilled me to the bone and I rushed about the town taking photos and quickly putting my hands back in my pockets. I walked from one side of the town to the other. The main roadway was basically straight all of the way, built into the side of the mountain. Many stores and restaurants were closed that were on the edge of town, and it’s smart because it’s their true off season at this time. They must save up their energy for their busy months. No rest for the wicked!

I again failed myself by not hiring a guide, however, I do plan to be back here! I walked by some really beautiful medieval homes turned into shops or cafes. Still proudly representing a crest above their doors. Something I love to see! As I stood there, looking around in disbelief that some of these places are still standing, men dressed as priests walked by me smiling kindly. Lots and lots of them. I wondered what their stories were, if they have been here long or are here with other groups that are on a spiritually focused tour group. Which you can absolutely do here!

As it should be, the grand finale was at the end of the town, perched over the Umbrian countryside, standing tall and fabulous in all of its glory. The Basilica of Saint Francis d’Assisi.

A lady selling scarves saw me standing like an idiot shivering and started laughing. I commented on the weather in Italian, and she replied, “we can’t all be saints!” Referring to the main man/saint of this town!
I laughed and her smiled warmed me, I waved goodbye and walked toward the church. I knew this was well known in the spiritual world, but I didn’t really read too much into it. If I’m excited about something I don’t look at a zillion google photos or blogs, the element of surprise is still there sometimes, which is exciting! No photos are allowed inside, though an Italian woman continued to snap photos in certain corners, trying to avoid the guards and security cameras....lady, stop it. Please don’t be that person. Respect the rules folks.

Without having my lens to look through, at every corner of the church, I decided to take a seat in one of the pews. I looked at the details and the stories that the art displayed. Some still very intact, others showing a bit of wear and tear. It’s then that I spotted these machines at the side of the church in the second level (yes, there are levels to this church, it just keeps on going and going!). For 2 euros you could put on some headphones, look at a screen and touch on different stories of the church that you wanted to learn about. More of a quick overview since they only lasted about 1-2 mins each, but it was something and I was happy to take in some history while I was there.

I had most streets, most piazzas and corners of the basilica to myself. I could see how this town could be in the peak seasons- especially during their festival that lasts two days, October 4th and the 5th. Be ready for the crowds around those days!

I considered hiking up to the fortress that hovers over the town, but I chickened out when I realized what time it was already. I’ve been a bit on a schedule on this trip and ideally parking the rental car before dark. Honestly with these hairpin turns in these little towns, it’s great to park the car and have a glass of wine after driving all over the place every day! I hope you’ll consider Assisi for your next trip to Italy, if not for an overnight stay, you can do just like I did and take a day trip from a nearby town. You won’t regret it!

Rome: Pasta with a side of Colosseo

If the restaurant you have reservations at, just happens to have a phenomenal view, snag the first seating possible. I walked up at 12:30pm on the dot and had the space to myself for at least 5 mins. The only noise was the light piano music playing from the speakers and in the background was the kitchen staff prepping for the day. I sat in silence and in awe, just me and the Colosseo.

The sommelier made a suggestion for my first wine, I say first, because I certainly walked in and had the intention of ordering two different glasses of wine. With my jet lag and it being midday, I requested whites. A taste of Vermentino splashed into my glass and jet lag was a thing of the past, I was in my happy place.

The server approached the table with two different types of breadsticks, each placed on a unique set up and display. Dining in Italy is so different than in the states, no anxious servers, rushing to get your order in. They don’t stand there, asking if you have questions, making suggestions and comments. It’s a calmer experience and you’re kind of left alone until you need something. I love it. I sat there scanning the menu, kind of wishing I was hungry enough for the tasting menu, but I knew I wouldn’t accomplish anything for the rest of the day if I did that to myself!

There were a great balance of seafood plates and also options for the meat lover (me). The lamb starter sounded fantastic, but I reminded myself that if this is like any other Relais & Chateaux dining experience, there will be a small taster to start the meal from the chef and lots and lots of bread selections. Spoiler alert, I was correct and so glad I only ordered the pasta.

A small individual loaf of warm, fresh, beautiful bread arrived and the server poured me a small portion of olive oil beside it. Which I could have sipped on if I wasn’t at a Michelin Star restaurant.

The sommelier took note that my wine was coming to an end and asked if he could make a suggestion to go with my pasta. I can’t say I liked one more than the other, but I certainly wish I could order a case of each and send it home.

I was surprised when the server came again, but it wasn’t with my pasta. Another bread!! Believe me, I was not complaining. The bread was this fantastic red color. The server explained that this was another in house made bread, tomato flavored, then they used a dropper bottle to drop a new oil over the top of it. Just a touch of oregano olive oil and you could smell then ingredients in the air. There I was smiling goofily over a sliced of bread again!

Shortly there after, my pasta was placed delicately in front of me. I looked up and saw a smile from the server, who clearly saw the excitement on my face. “Buon appetito” said the server and I was left there again in quiet and with my stunning view. Taking in each bite, savoring it. Wishing I could somehow recreate this at home. Or at least find a way to come back here again when I’m here for another visit in June. Darn, I thought to myself, they probably change the menu for the seasons.

Paccheri mantecati al burro e parmigiano stravecchio con ragù di anatra profumato al cardamomo verde. Paccheri pasta creamed with butter and aged parmesan cheese, with duck ragout flavored with green cardamom.

I took my time finishing my plate. With no intention of ordering a dessert. Honestly it’s my least favorite thing about a meal, I’ve just never been a dessert kinda gal. I opted to take a look at the menu and of course all of the creations offered sounded positively magical. I wish I could just see them! So my mind said, “when in Rome!” There I was ordering “Il nido” and I was so curious to see how this “nest” looked, made into a dessert.

A small table was set beside me. I said to the waiter, “uh oh, what’s this?!” Laughing to myself. She replied, “you’ll see, just a moment!” Also laughing. It was a a delicious ‘pre dessert’, basically a dessert lovers dream come true. There was meringue, smoke, mango sauce and pineapple. It was delicious.

Il nido: crema di ricotta, cachi e polvere di tartufo The nest: ricotta cream, persimmons and truffle powder

Minutes later came my real order and I was ready to roll down the stairs to my bed for a nap! I tucked into the dessert, and it was alllll the right flavors. I just wish I had someone there to finish it for me, because I simply couldn’t do it. Just the right amount of sweetness to the plate, the crunch, the flavors, all worked wonderfully together. Certainly one of the best desserts I’ve ever had.

A meal to remember and a meal to brag about to all of my foodie friends, just in the hopes to inspire them to go on their next visit to Rome. The staff was excellent, each of them were a joy to be around and made the meal more fun- especially since they were entertaining me during my meal for one. Thanks to the chef for his creations that my tastebuds won’t forget for a while!